2007/07/24
peru 2007.4
for all those who would like to repeat our route COMPANIA VERTICAL 200m, 7b (6b obl.) on hatun ulloc east face, here's the topo
2007/07/20
freesolourbandeathroutesstyleyeah!
nicht erst seit COMMITTAGE ist die YOUTUBE voll von kletterposingproductions allererster qualitaet.
eifrig versuchen junge menschen, einige lux vom rampenlicht ihrer vorbilder zu erhaschen.
z.b. durch urbane abenteuer, die durchaus ein zweites crashpad verlangen.
oder die gelungene DAN OSMAN-Imitation.
dass man fuer harde stunts nicht unbedingt raus muss ausm haus, zeigen emil und andi.
SPIDERMAN ist jedenfalls auch ganz weit draussen.
aber dass die gefahr nicht unbedingt in der vertikalen zu suchen ist, sondern eher in HH-Sued, sollte man ihnen noch vermitteln...
2007/07/17
peru 2007.3
back at home and...finally, some pictures. better late than never. I hope it makes your mouth watering like you wish you had never asked for....
esfinge, 5350m
base camp at esfinge
cruz del sur cruz del sur
bivy at 5000m, next morning
cruz del sur
summit
esfinge, 5350m
base camp at esfinge
cruz del sur cruz del sur
bivy at 5000m, next morning
cruz del sur
summit
2007/06/30
peru2007.2
sorry cuys...err...guys,
due to shredded finger tips and total body fatigue I can only refer to alexs forum entry on
http://forum.klettern-ettringen.de/index.php/topic,884.msg4511/topicseen.html#msg4511
I can only tell that we successfully climbed ESFINGE twice, including a very cold bivy at approximately 5000m.
apart from that, pictures are available soon!
stay tuned!
due to shredded finger tips and total body fatigue I can only refer to alexs forum entry on
http://forum.klettern-ettringen.de/index.php/topic,884.msg4511/topicseen.html#msg4511
I can only tell that we successfully climbed ESFINGE twice, including a very cold bivy at approximately 5000m.
apart from that, pictures are available soon!
stay tuned!
2007/06/22
peru 2007.1
finally some time to write some long due things about our trip to huaraz!
to make reading amenable for you, I will hurry through the last few days and spare the details.
due to uploading problems with michaels digicam, pictures have to wait until the problem is fixed.
day 1: depature from frankfurt airport brings us in a meager 8 eventless hours to atlanta, where we have a coffee for the next 5 hours. the only hassle there is the HOME SECURITY desk. although we are only in transit, we have to undergo the complete fingerprint here, look at camera there-procedure. the officer at my desk knows no hello and yawns and farts in my presence.
behind him a poster reminds him that "you represent our country". that black trash moron of a home security slave did his best to do just that...
the flight to lima takes another 6 hours.
at our arrival we are welcome by a taxi driver who we booked in advance via a friend of ours (oesi) who lives in huaraz and is befriended to a bavarian peruvian (rudi) who runs a private hostel.
day 2: lima is hazy from the nearby pacific sea and dusty from too many cars that still smell like cars used to.
after a brief visit to a seaside promenade and no iews at all we decide to visit st. franzisko and its catacombes. afetr a tour through the history of the church we are finally taken to a tour in the basement, where the franziskan monks did their best to store the bones of the deceised by in the most correct way: legs to legs. skulls to skulls. the hole that keeps the skulls is about 10 meters deep...
after that we visit the remains of a pyramide that the lima people once erected and lived around it. funny enough they never touched that ground to built their houses on. respect.
our bus to huaraz leaves at 10:30 pm and we sleepily pack our belongings and greet the taxi driver who takes us to CRUZ DEL SUR bus station.
the bus ride is a whole trance with shitty elevator music and a too cold aircon and will go on for the next 8 hours before we can collect our limbs and are spat out at the huaraz bus station, 6oclock in the morning at plus 2 degrees.
luckily we only have to shy away the taxi locusts for 20 minutes before oesi arrives and takes us to his place, where we unpack and afterwards head to the CALIFORNIA CAFE. a reallz nice place with home made cake and good coffee and good views to HUASCARAN, one of the biggest 6000ers in the range.
after breakfast, oesi takes us around town and soon enough we are ready for bed.
day 3: takes us to the hot wells of MONTERREY. swimming in warm, brown (iron!) water on 3000m is the best you can do after such a ride.
behind the bath is a small crag and the peruvian military from the nearby base is training absailing.
after they are finished they leave the place in a proud march, guns before their chests, a funny song on their lips and...orange petzl helmets still on their heads. sometimes I ask myself whats all the camouflage for...
day 4: we drive up to PITEC, to visit the beautiful settled THEWAYINN.com. its a hostel run by brits. from there one can do many things including bouldering (what we do) on the hills around, trekking and sport climbing in the LLACA valley and getting high from cacti juice...
day 5: we arrange a trip to a volcanic sport climbing crag, HATUN MACHAY at 4000m to acclimatize and visit this beautiful bosco de pietra. It resembles a bit new zealands CASTLE HILL. we stay there over night. the second day sees me trying an 8a, which proves quite exhausting at that elevation. sad enough, chipping and glueing has also invaded this remote place.
at our return we go out to dine in huaraz and I have my first cuy (guinea pig). Its not more than chicken with claws and tastes nearly the same.
after that we get pissed in the VAGAMUNDO bar with one too many PISCO SOUR and end up in a bar next to the bus station chatting to some nurses from lima.
day 6: we take a rest day and arrange our next climatizing destination, ISHINKA VALLEY and LAKE ISHINKA at 5000m. we take our first walk into HUASCARAN NATIONAL PARK, where we walk up to the lake and sleep low at about 4600m. the walk back take us along HATUN ULLOC mountain, where an american team (and rumor has it some spaniards too) put up a prominent route (KARMA). as we are also primed for a new route, we walk uphill to scan for new route potencial. so far we discovered a possible line of fissures in the east face. but thats only for now. ESFINGEs neighbor, the TORRE PARRON is said to have endless new route potencial and is so far untouched...
tommorrow, another team member, HANS-MARTIN from duesseldorf, whose climbing partners bailed after reaching base camp of some 6000er, will join us for ESFINGE.
to make reading amenable for you, I will hurry through the last few days and spare the details.
due to uploading problems with michaels digicam, pictures have to wait until the problem is fixed.
day 1: depature from frankfurt airport brings us in a meager 8 eventless hours to atlanta, where we have a coffee for the next 5 hours. the only hassle there is the HOME SECURITY desk. although we are only in transit, we have to undergo the complete fingerprint here, look at camera there-procedure. the officer at my desk knows no hello and yawns and farts in my presence.
behind him a poster reminds him that "you represent our country". that black trash moron of a home security slave did his best to do just that...
the flight to lima takes another 6 hours.
at our arrival we are welcome by a taxi driver who we booked in advance via a friend of ours (oesi) who lives in huaraz and is befriended to a bavarian peruvian (rudi) who runs a private hostel.
day 2: lima is hazy from the nearby pacific sea and dusty from too many cars that still smell like cars used to.
after a brief visit to a seaside promenade and no iews at all we decide to visit st. franzisko and its catacombes. afetr a tour through the history of the church we are finally taken to a tour in the basement, where the franziskan monks did their best to store the bones of the deceised by in the most correct way: legs to legs. skulls to skulls. the hole that keeps the skulls is about 10 meters deep...
after that we visit the remains of a pyramide that the lima people once erected and lived around it. funny enough they never touched that ground to built their houses on. respect.
our bus to huaraz leaves at 10:30 pm and we sleepily pack our belongings and greet the taxi driver who takes us to CRUZ DEL SUR bus station.
the bus ride is a whole trance with shitty elevator music and a too cold aircon and will go on for the next 8 hours before we can collect our limbs and are spat out at the huaraz bus station, 6oclock in the morning at plus 2 degrees.
luckily we only have to shy away the taxi locusts for 20 minutes before oesi arrives and takes us to his place, where we unpack and afterwards head to the CALIFORNIA CAFE. a reallz nice place with home made cake and good coffee and good views to HUASCARAN, one of the biggest 6000ers in the range.
after breakfast, oesi takes us around town and soon enough we are ready for bed.
day 3: takes us to the hot wells of MONTERREY. swimming in warm, brown (iron!) water on 3000m is the best you can do after such a ride.
behind the bath is a small crag and the peruvian military from the nearby base is training absailing.
after they are finished they leave the place in a proud march, guns before their chests, a funny song on their lips and...orange petzl helmets still on their heads. sometimes I ask myself whats all the camouflage for...
day 4: we drive up to PITEC, to visit the beautiful settled THEWAYINN.com. its a hostel run by brits. from there one can do many things including bouldering (what we do) on the hills around, trekking and sport climbing in the LLACA valley and getting high from cacti juice...
day 5: we arrange a trip to a volcanic sport climbing crag, HATUN MACHAY at 4000m to acclimatize and visit this beautiful bosco de pietra. It resembles a bit new zealands CASTLE HILL. we stay there over night. the second day sees me trying an 8a, which proves quite exhausting at that elevation. sad enough, chipping and glueing has also invaded this remote place.
at our return we go out to dine in huaraz and I have my first cuy (guinea pig). Its not more than chicken with claws and tastes nearly the same.
after that we get pissed in the VAGAMUNDO bar with one too many PISCO SOUR and end up in a bar next to the bus station chatting to some nurses from lima.
day 6: we take a rest day and arrange our next climatizing destination, ISHINKA VALLEY and LAKE ISHINKA at 5000m. we take our first walk into HUASCARAN NATIONAL PARK, where we walk up to the lake and sleep low at about 4600m. the walk back take us along HATUN ULLOC mountain, where an american team (and rumor has it some spaniards too) put up a prominent route (KARMA). as we are also primed for a new route, we walk uphill to scan for new route potencial. so far we discovered a possible line of fissures in the east face. but thats only for now. ESFINGEs neighbor, the TORRE PARRON is said to have endless new route potencial and is so far untouched...
tommorrow, another team member, HANS-MARTIN from duesseldorf, whose climbing partners bailed after reaching base camp of some 6000er, will join us for ESFINGE.
2007/06/06
G8
auch ich bin kein freund sinnloser, geldverschwenderischer tête-a-tête-laber-rhabarber-veranstaltungen à la holydam und oute mich hiermit offiziell als daheimgebliebener globalisierungsgegner und schwarzer-block-sympatisant.
(ja, herr schaeuble! ich bin einer von denen, die keinen anschlag geplant haben, aber dringendst davon abgehalten werden muessen!)
abgesehen davon mal was ganz anderes:
woran erinnern euch diese bilder?
(ja, herr schaeuble! ich bin einer von denen, die keinen anschlag geplant haben, aber dringendst davon abgehalten werden muessen!)
abgesehen davon mal was ganz anderes:
woran erinnern euch diese bilder?
2007/05/29
team peru 2007
zum ersten auswaertseinsatz verschlug es TEAM PERU ins frankenjura. nachdem chamonix wegen gefaehrlicher gewitterneigung ausgefallen war und auch die sandsteinhochburg tschechien fuer die wetterlage zu weit erschien, hatten wir uns kurzfristig umentschieden und haben damit alles richtig gemacht.
dabei entpuppte sich die reihenfolge mitdenhuehnernaufstehen, kletternbisdiefingerbrennen und nach dem ersten nachmittagsgewitter kaffeundkuchen und evtl. danach noch was klettern als die richtige taktik.
zur belohnung gabs die obligatorische forelle und tagsdrauf schaeuferle mit klos in der GUTEN EINKEHR.
neben der nicht neuen einsicht, dass das frankenjura neben seinen kulinarischen genuessen auch feinste steilkletterei zu bieten hat, kann man auch zusammefassend sagen, dass TEAM PERU zweieinhalb wochen vor der abreise hervorragend zusammen funktioniert.
hier sei schonmal auf den kommenden reiseblog hingewiesen, den ich hiermit ohne fingerueberkreuz und so verspreche. aufgrund regen interesses von auslaendischer seite wird dann auf englisch gebloggt.
dabei entpuppte sich die reihenfolge mitdenhuehnernaufstehen, kletternbisdiefingerbrennen und nach dem ersten nachmittagsgewitter kaffeundkuchen und evtl. danach noch was klettern als die richtige taktik.
zur belohnung gabs die obligatorische forelle und tagsdrauf schaeuferle mit klos in der GUTEN EINKEHR.
neben der nicht neuen einsicht, dass das frankenjura neben seinen kulinarischen genuessen auch feinste steilkletterei zu bieten hat, kann man auch zusammefassend sagen, dass TEAM PERU zweieinhalb wochen vor der abreise hervorragend zusammen funktioniert.
hier sei schonmal auf den kommenden reiseblog hingewiesen, den ich hiermit ohne fingerueberkreuz und so verspreche. aufgrund regen interesses von auslaendischer seite wird dann auf englisch gebloggt.
2007/05/24
fundamentalismus
als ich gestern mit meiner dieselschleuder nach KO unterwegs bin folgende situation:
ich habe gerade einen LKW mit 90 sachen ueberholt und will schleunigst wieder platz fuer den normalverkehr machen, als ich hinter mir ein kleines, silbernes auto eines unbekannten, japanischen fabrikats im rueckspiegel entdecke, das genau so langsam faehrt wie ich, aber wenig bereit ist, dem hinterherblinkenden BMW freie fahrt zu gewaehren.
na gut, denke ich, du hast ja auch schnellfahrende freunde und damit sowas wie solidaritaet fuer PS-struntzer. ich fahre also wieder links rueber und werde NOCH langsamer als ich eh schon bin. mein plan: dann bremse ich die reisschuessel eben aus und der andere kann in seelenruhe rechts ueberholen.
mein plan geht auf.
als ich wieder nach rechts rueber schwanke, ueberholt auch endlich mal das kleine silberne (langsam).
auf dem kofferraumdeckel der notorische fisch mit der inschrift JESUS.
kennzeichen: WI-SH...
2007/04/18
erklaerungsnotstand
bitte erklaer mir mal jemand diesen satz:
«Wäre es richtig zu sagen: Lieber lasse ich zehn Anschläge passieren, als dass ich jemanden, der vielleicht keinen Anschlag begehen will, daran zu hindern versuche? Nach meiner Auffassung wäre das falsch»
so steht das zitat von wolfgang schaeuble zu seiner geplantenten ausserkraftsetzung der verfassungsmaessig garantierten unschuldsvermutung im STERN.
ok, so schwierig ist das nicht zu kapieren. aber was sagt uns dieser satz sonst noch?
dass das verhaeltnis von nichtanschlagsveruebenden zu anschlaegern 10 zu 1 ist?
dass man leute, die noch keinen anschlag veruebt haben, vorsorglich daran hindern sollte? koennen wir unsere persoenliche anschlagspunkteliste demnaechst in der antiterrordatei nachlesen?
und wie war das nochmal mit dem frosch, den man langsam erhitzt...?
2007/04/02
lomographie
eigentlich wollte ich das schon vor ner woche posten. aber aufgeschoben ist ja nicht aufgehoben.
nachdem wir die premiere von AM LIMIT in grosser klettervolkrunde gesehen hatten, verschlug es uns mit dem plan, ein gemeinsames bier zu nehmen ueber den umweg WEISSER HOLUNDER (geht bitte nie mehr in diese kneipe!!! die ist scheisse! scheisse!!!) ins filmhaus, wo wir angenehm ueberrascht wurden: im vorraum zum kino spielte eine band irgendein arg repetitives, aber gut rockendes elktrodiscofunkyzeug, wozu ein dicker, schwarzer, gutgelaunter mann echt gut sang.
zu unserer freude gab es 0,3 reissdorf fuer 2€, dazu richtig guten kaese und in oel eingelegte, vegetarische schweinereien fuer umme.
wie sich spaeter heraus stellte, waren wir auf der party der LOMOGRAPHY SOCIETY INTERNATIONAL (lomography.com) gelandet.
diese veranstaltete im filmhaus die party zu ihrem gerade beendeten internet-projekt, zu dem die besten eingesendeten arbeiten in einer grossen collage ueber eine komplette wand verteilt wurden.
bei der anschliessenden recherche zum thema LOMO bin ich dann noch ueber diese perle von designkunst gestolpert: SATUGO.com bietet wegwerfkameras der etwas anderen art an...
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