2009/05/20

california 3 (separate reality)


noch ein klassiker: die SEPARATE REALITY oberhalb des COOKIE CLIFF.
spontan hatten wir (die belgier Klaas und Mich (ja, der heisst wirklich so!), mit denen wir seit san franzisko unterwegs sind und ich) uns entschlossen, die fahrstuhlmusikdudelige athmosphaere der lodge zu verlassen und etwas action zu machen.
dabei haette der tag sich nicht mehr von der anderen realitaet unterscheiden koennen: es war feuchtwarm und die gewitterneigung lag laut vorhersage bei 20%.
wer jedoch nur den kleinen finger aus der klimatisierten lodge hielt, wusste es besser: It's coming!
nichtsdestotrotz machten wir uns gespannt auf den weg und parkten schon bald vor tunnel, von dem aus ein steiler weg zum dach der route fuehrt. ein statikseil fuehrt dann hinunter zum einstieg.
alles hier ist steil. nur ein halber meter trennt einen vom rand des COOKIE CLIFF. darueber steile platten, auf denen man nicht ausrutschen sollte. der schwung wuerde einen geradewegs zum einstieg der roouten am cookie befoerdern...
wer mein verhaeltnis zu blitzen kennt, wird verstehen, wie nervoes ich war, als ich mich im aufkommenden gewittersturm auf den onsight vorbereitete.
konzentriert, aber ein wenig fahrig kletterte ich los. im dachwinkel angekommen legte sich die nervositaet erwartungsgemaess. dafuer war ich aber auch schon von den wenigen metern in der schwuelen luft ein wenig angepumpt.
die ersten klemmversuche im dach bestaetigten meine vermutung: die bedingungen konnten schlechter nicht sein. nur unbarmherziges klemmen koennte hier jetzt weiterhelfen. also alle energie auf koerperspannung und los!
dabei half mir die erfahrung aus dachrouten wie MA DALTON und LEGOLAND, die ich in einem 3woechigen graniturlaub onsight geklettert hatte.
kurz vor der dachkante werden die handklemmer kleiner und anstrengender und ich war jetzt voll angepumpt.
ich dachte nicht viel darueber nach, als ich den plan, den ich mir vom ankucken der route gemacht hatte in die tat umsetzte. also hepp, mit der rechten hand aus dem klemmer an das kleine horn, das von der jahre zuvor abgebrochenen schuppe uebrig geblieben ist.
nur um zentimeter verfehlte ich die gute stelle. sekunden verharrte ich, eine hand noch klemmend im riss, die andere auf dem flachen aufleger neben dem guten horn, bevor ich abrutschte und weich im seil landete.
mit einem lauten FUCK! liess ich meine frustration raus.
danach versuchten sich klaas und mich in der route. leider ohne erfolg. klaas zahlte lehrgeld, da dies seine erster klettertrip in ein rissgebiet war und er noch probleme hatte, die guten klemmpositionen zu finden.
mich dagegen kam schon ein stueck weiter. aber auch fuer ihn endete die reise vor der dachkante an den flutschigen fast-handklemmern.
dann war es wieder an mir und ich machte mich fuer den zweiten versuch bereit.
das gewitter war schon naeher gekommen und ich wusste, dass es der letzte versuch sein wuerde.
mit mehr selbstvertrauen als zuvor kletterte ich los. auch war ich jetzt schon aufgewaermt. ich fuehlte, dass es jetzt auch ein klettern gegen meine energiereserven war. also gab ich gas!
die handklemmer vor der dachkante klemmte ich jetzt noch vehementer als davor.
eine kurze rast an einem guten handjam und ich zog die bewegung durch, die klaas vorher ausgebouldert hatte: rechte hand auf ein kleines kaentchen, linken fuss in den riss und die schulter nach links eindrehen und mit links auf das guten horn. danach die fuesse kommen lassen und in einer bewegung mit rechts in den fingerriss, der zur dachkante fuehrt.
jetzt nur noch die fuesse ueber die kante schwingen und das wars!
uebergluecklich seilte ich mich wieder am statikseil ab.

jetzt war das gewitter richtig nah!
mich seilte sich an, als der wind zunahm und blaetter und aeste unter das dach wehten. was fuer eine athmosphaere fuer einen rotpunktversuch!
sehr gelassen kletterte er bis zur dachkante. die bedingungen waren jetzt ploetzlich richtig gut, waehrend der wind zunmahm, blitze in naechtster naehe flashten und der donner und wind eine verstaendigung unmoeglich machten.
wir feuerten ihn aus allen lungen an, als er sich an der dachkante noch einmal kurz konzentrierte: rechte hand auf die kleine leiste....linken fuss....scheisse! der linke fuss war zu weit von seinem koerper entfernt! er liess die fuesse kommen. kurz dachte ich, er wuerde ein ueberkruezdynamo ans horn machen. aber da war die kraft zu ende.
wieder auf die platte abgelassen fing es auch schon wie aus eimern zu regnen an. gut, dass wir ein dach ueber dem kopf hatten! nur der riss im dach muesste mal geflickt werden....aber das ist eine andere geschichte.

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